During our time in Tokyo, we made sure to check out two of Tokyo’s hubs of pop culture – Akihabara for gaming, manga, and anime; and Harajuku for fashion, sweet treats and cat costumes!
Akihabara earned its nickname ‘electric town’ several decades ago when this was the place the buy all kinds of cheap electronics. Now, its a place where everything is electric; huge neon billboards, video games, vending machines, arcade games. The energy of the crowds is also electric – manga superfans, the tech-savvy, curious tourists, cosplayers, gamers and card collectors – all crammed into the streets to go shopping. The streets are closed to cars during the day, so people swarm freely.
Arriving by train, we were distracted for a good half an hour before even leaving the station by the cluster of capsule toy dispensers. There were several dozen, complete with change machines, enthusiastic crowds choosing their mystery toy with care. Cindy walked away with a Harry Potter keychain of Dobby, whilst I ended up with a creepy zombie pineapple figurine.
We wandered around in claw-game arcades (incredibly popular pastimes in Japan, as well), stocked up on Studio Ghibli and Nintendo souvenirs, and marveled at the selection of manga on sale. When it was time for a bathroom break, I found myself playing a video game on the urinal, where the sensor measuring the force of my pee stream helped me defeat a giant monster on the screen in front of me. We didn’t go into any of the famed ‘maid cafes’ of Akihabara, cosplay restaurants where the servers are dressed as French maids, despite lots of maids in the streets advertising in costume. Akihabara was great fun for people like us – casual cartoon fans – but this place would be heaven for manga and anime enthusiasts.
Standing near Harajuku station, there was a girl with a pale green wig, bug-eyed sunglasses and a furry leopard-skinned coat. Our first ‘Harajuku girl’ – spotted! We had ice creams in hand, and we were trying to see more of the famous alternative fashion of Harajuku. We knew what to look for – curled purple hair, Doc Martens, frilly Alice in Wonderland dresses and cutesy anime makeup. Maybe a top hat, or rainbow socks, or a fluoro baseball jacket. Sadly, winter seemed to be the wrong time for outrageous Tokyo styles to step out, so Harajuku was mostly filled with shoppers and tourists instead.
But no matter – there was plenty more to see. Harajuku is centred on two very different main streets. The first is Omotesando, a wide tree-lined shopping haven with expensive international brands and glittering fairy lights (like the Champs-Elysees of Tokyo).
But we came here mostly for Takeshita Street and the surrounding backstreets, the home of Tokyo’s alternative culture. It’s a pedestrian street, papered with concert posters and filled with junk food, souvenirs and curiosities. Down the side streets are skate shops, ramen restaurants, cat cafes and caricature studios. And between the tourists and the soberly dressed locals are the hipsters, goths and Harajuku girls dressed up in their Lolita costumes and fluoro wigs and stockings.
Although Takeshita street is one of the more touristy places we saw in Tokyo, there are lots of great things to discover in this neighborhood. Something that caught our attention immediately was the shop selling dog and cat outfits. At 5,500 Yen per suit, they’re not cheap, but to have a dog running around the lounge room looking like a tiny samurai or R2D2 droid, maybe the cost is justified! Along the road is Zakuzaku dessert shop, serving one of Tokyo’s greatest snacks. It is an extra-crispy deep fried churros-type thing, piped with fresh cream. Delicious! They also sell soft-serve ice cream, topped with the same fried batter crispies.
We didn’t get far in Harajuku without bumping into the big displays of the plastic crepes. You can’t miss the displays; every topping combo they offer is frozen in plastic and up for display on a huge wall. The crepes are crazy sugar overloads, rolled into a cone shape, filled with chocolate, or banana, or strawberries, and smothered in whipped cream.